There are dozens of tattoo styles, but twelve feature in the vast majority of designs: old school, Japanese, blackwork, dotwork, geometric, minimalist, fine line, realism, neo-traditional and new school, watercolour, illustrative and floral. Choosing one of these styles means deciding on the session duration, your budget, how the tattoo will age over time and, above all, which tattoo artist to visit.
Take a wolf. In blackwork, it’s a solid black silhouette. In dotwork, a textured pattern of dots. In realism, a portrait that stares right back at you. In new school, a cartoon character who’s had a bit too much coffee. Same idea, four tattoos that couldn’t be more different.
Why is style so important?
Because it shapes everything else. The style determines the length of the session, and therefore the price. It determines how the design will look in twenty years’ time. And it determines which tattoo artist you choose, as very few professionals excel in every style. An excellent watercolour tattoo artist isn’t necessarily the right person for fine lettering, and vice versa.
That’s why we recommend looking for a tattoo artist based on style, as explained in our guide to choosing your first tattoo. Here are the twelve main styles, grouped into categories.
Historical styles
1. Old school (traditional American)
Originating in the early 20th century amongst sailors and in port towns, and popularised by figures such as Sailor Jerry, the ‘old school’ style is instantly recognisable: thick black outlines, a colour palette limited to a few bold colours (red, green, yellow), and standardised motifs such as the swallow, the rose, the anchor, the heart and its banner.
It’s designed to last: its thick lines keep the design intact even when the ink fades slightly over the years. It remains one of the safest choices today for a tattoo that’s meant to age well. The ‘Mom’ inside a heart, that’s it. And it doesn’t age either.
2. Traditional Japanese (irezumi)
Irezumi draws on centuries of Japanese iconography: koi carp, dragons, waves, cherry blossoms and deities. It is organised into large compositions that follow the curves of the body rather than sitting on it as an isolated motif. It is a demanding style, requiring several long sessions and a tattoo artist trained in its techniques and symbolism. Our article on irezumi explains its conventions in detail.
3. Blackwork
Solid blocks of deep black, crisp edges, no shading. From tribal designs to geometric or abstract compositions, blackwork is all about contrast. It remains legible from a distance and ages very well, but it doesn’t forgive any sloppiness: an uneven block of colour is immediately noticeable. Everything is explained in our article on blackwork tattoos.
Graphic and contemporary styles
4. Dotwork
The image is created entirely using dots. The closer together the dots are, the darker the area appears. Dotwork allows for textures and gradients of great finesse, often used for mandalas, ornaments or compositions inspired by sacred art. It is a time-consuming style, which is therefore reflected in the length of the sessions and the cost.
5. Geometric
Precise lines, symmetrical shapes, triangles, circles, interlocking patterns. Geometric designs leave no room for error: a deviation in symmetry of just one millimetre is visible to the naked eye, whereas it would go unnoticed in a more organic style. This is the style of tattoo artists who have a ruler in their heads.
6. Minimalist
A few lines, a design stripped back to the essentials, with plenty of skin left uncovered. This is often the style of a first tattoo, because it’s quick, discreet and easy to position. Its simplicity is deceptive: with such clean lines, even the slightest hesitation of the hand is visible. Keeping it simple is often the hardest thing to do.
7. Fineline
A close relative of minimalism, fineline tattooing uses very fine needles to create extremely delicate lines: botanical designs, stylised portraits and subtle floral compositions. It requires a specialist tattoo artist and a little ongoing care: very fine lines fade more quickly than thicker ones, and a minor touch-up after a few years is perfectly normal.
Figurative and pictorial styles
8. Realism
Portraits, animals, landscapes: realism depicts a subject with a finish close to that of a photograph, in black and grey or in colour. It is one of the most demanding and time-consuming styles, and therefore one of the most expensive. The tattoo artist’s portfolio should show clear results once the tattoo has healed, not just flattering photos taken immediately after leaving the studio.
9. Neo-traditional and new school
Two heirs to the old school. The neo-traditional style retains its bold outlines and clarity, but adds shading, highlights and a richer colour palette. The new school takes things a step further: exaggerated proportions, dynamic perspectives, bright colours, and a style openly inspired by cartoons or pop culture. One is like engraving, the other like a cartoon.
10. Watercolour
The watercolour style mimics the drips and blends of paint, often without a black outline. It looks spectacular. However, there is a trade-off to be aware of: without outlines to hold the design in place, the colours lose their sharpness more quickly. Skilled watercolour tattoo artists often structure the composition with a few more stable graphic elements to ensure it lasts over time.
11. Illustrative
Drawing inspiration from illustration, comic books and manga, the illustrative style relies on clean blocks of colour, bold outlines and immediate visual impact. It stylises where realism reproduces. It is an excellent choice for a project with a strong visual identity, or one inspired by a specific universe.
Decorative styles
12. Floral
Floral designs remain one of the most popular styles, across all age groups. They come in almost every other style: delicate fine line, dense blackwork, airy watercolour, textured dotwork. From a small, discreet sprig to a large design running down a leg, they suit all sizes, and each flower can be chosen for its meaning as much as for its shape.
What about other styles?
Twelve styles, this is a starting point, not an exhaustive list. Some styles recur frequently and are worth knowing about:
- black and grey: black ink diluted to create a range of greys, for soft shading reminiscent of pencil drawings. It forms the basis of many realistic designs;
- Lettering: from delicate calligraphy to highly intricate script, it is a style in its own right, with its own specialists. A good letterer spends just as much time on the spacing between letters as on the letters themselves;
- Trash Polka: a blend of realism, solid blacks and bright reds, with collage-style graphic elements. Highly recognisable, very bold, and not for the indecisive;
- Tribal: a legacy of Polynesian, Māori and Bornean traditions, which can also be found in blackwork. Its designs often have a specific meaning, which is worth understanding before getting the tattoo.
Many tattoo artists, in fact, blend these styles and sometimes even invent their own style in the process. That’s part of what makes it a living art form.
Summary table of the 12 styles
| Style | Distinguishing feature | Ageing | Session duration |
|---|---|---|---|
| Old school | Thick outlines, bold colours | Excellent | Moderated |
| Japanese | Large standardised designs | Very good | Long, requiring several sessions |
| Blackwork | Solid black areas | Excellent | Moderate to long |
| Dotwork | Point-by-point construction | Good | Long |
| Geometric | Symmetry, precise lines | Good | Moderate to long |
| Minimalist | Few lines, plenty of skin | Well, if it’s not too small | Short |
| Fineline | Very fine lines | Editing required | Short to moderate |
| Realism | Photographic rendering | Depends on the tattoo artist | Long |
| Neo-trad / new school | Rich colours, bold outlines | Good | Moderate to long |
| Watercolour | Blurring, minimal outlines | More fragile | Moderated |
| Illustrative | Graphic design | Good | Moderated |
| Floral | Suitable for all styles | Depending on the style chosen | Variable |
These are general trends. How quickly a tattoo actually fades also depends on the size of the design, the area of the body, the tattoo artist and the sun protection you use.
How do you choose the style that suits you best?
Ask yourself three questions that matter more than the latest trend:
- How much time and money are you prepared to spend? A realistic design covering the whole forearm and a small fine-line tattoo are worlds apart. Our guide to tattoo prices will help you plan ahead.
- How do you want your tattoo to age? If you want a design that will still look sharp in thirty years’ time, high-contrast styles are your best bet.
- Can you find a true specialist in this style? A technical style entrusted to someone who doesn’t practise it will always produce a disappointing result, whereas the same design, in the right hands, would have been a success.
As for references found online, use them for inspiration, never as a template. Someone else’s tattoo was designed for them. Yours deserves to be unique, and your tattoo artist is an artist: let them do their job.
And to find out what’s trending right now, our article on this year’s trends rounds off this overview.
Find out more
- How to choose your first tattoo (and get it right)
- The cost of a tattoo in France: a budget guide
- Tattoos by body part: arm, ankle, ribs, nape of the neck
Style is half the battle. The other half is down to the tattoo artist’s skill. To find certified tattoo artists near you and browse their portfolios before getting in touch, download Tat’s It, the 100 per cent free app: the links are just below.
An idea, a tattoo, Tat’s It.